Saturday, January 29, 2011

MYSORE A GARDEN CITY

Mysore

Mysuru or Mysore, situated in the southern part of the Deccan Plateau, in the state of Karnataka, India, is an undulating tableland, covered in parts by granite outcrops and fringed by verdant forests.
Located 770m above sea level and 140 Kms from Bangalore, Mysore, the imperial city, was the erstwhile capital of the Wodeyars. Also known as the city of Palaces, Mysore has never failed to mesmerise the tourists with its quaint charm, rich heritage, magnificent palaces, beautifully laid-out gardens, imposing buildings, broad shady avenues and sacred temples.

Mysore is the erstwhile capital of Wodeyars, the rulers of Mysore State. The Wodeyar family ruled Mysore since 14th century except for a short period of 40 years when Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan were the rulers. Today Mysore is one of the major cities of Karnataka. Mysore has emerged as a thriving market for exotic sandalwood & incense, the Mysore silk sarees and stone-carved sculptures.

Mysore is certainly a charming, old-fashioned and undaunting town dominated by the spectacular Maharaja's Palace, around which the boulevards of the city radiate. Nearby is the city centre with the colourful and frenetic Devaraja Market is inviting a stroll.

On the outskirts of Mysore, Srirangapatnam still harbours architectural gems from the days of the great Indian hero, Tipu Sultan, and the magnificent Hoysala temple of Somnathpur lies little more than an hour's drive away. 

LEGEND
In the tenth century Mysore was known as "Mahishur", the town where the buffalo-demon Mahishashur was slain by the goddess Durga. The word Mysore expands to "Mahishasurana Ooru", which means the town of Mahishasura. It is believed that during one of the wars between devils and demons on the one hand and gods and goddesses on the other, the demon Mahishasur (Mahishur) overpowered the gods.

The goddess on seeing this, incarnated as the fireceful Chamundi or Chamundeshwari and consequently, Mahishasura was killed by Her atop the Chamundi Hill near Mysore. Ever since, the Mysore royal family has worshipped Chamundeshwari as the palace deity. Hills dedicated to Her stand at the eastern end of Mysore town to this day. 

HISTORIC MYSORE

Mysore abounds with history. The prehistory of Mysore is lost in legends that concern the struggle that took place in southern India between invading Aryan people and the original inhabitants. The subsequent history of the region deals mainly with the princely state of Mysore as it was before 1953, for no dynasty succeeded in ruling the whole region occupied by the Kannada -speaking people. Until independence, Mysore was the seat of the maharajas of Mysore, a princely state covering about a third of present day Karnataka. The maharajas' walled Indo-Saracenic palace is a major attraction.

The history of Mysore starts with the activities of prehistoric man traced on the banks of the river Cauvery and its tributaries. Traces of neolithic and megalithic ages have been found there. Many inscriptions replete with the history of various dynasties have been found in Mysore. Many places in the district are associated with mythological stories as well.

Many dynasties have ruled Mysore and neighbouring places. Some of the important ones are the Gangas, who ruled the longest period from 4th to 10th century. The Cholas ruled from 10th century onwards and the Hoysalas from 10th century to the 15th century. Later the Vijayanagar ruled from 14th century followed by the Mysore Wodeyar or Yadu dynasty. From 1399 AD, the Wodeyar family ruled Mysore until India became independent in 1947 except for 38 years in the 18th century when Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan seized power.

Mysore was very prosperous during the reign of Chikkadevaraya, which did not invite the animosity of Mughals, Marathas and the Nizams. After Chikkadevaraya, the Wodeyar rulers became weak and Hyder Ali couped the power. During the 38 years that followed, Mysore prospered very well. With the headquarters at Srirangapatna, they built beautiful palaces in Mysore and Bangalore , laid out a dream botanical garden at Lal Bagh and fought valiantly to oust the British from their native soil.

After the death of Tipu Sultan in 1799 AD the power was restored to the Wodeyars. In 1831 AD, the British took over the administration of Mysore. In the early 20th century, nationalist fervour swept the country and people of Mysore were involved actively in the freedom movement. After independence, Mysore was acceded to the Union of India. In 1956 Mysore State was enlarged and on 1st Nov. 1973 renamed Karnataka

Mysore Tourist Attractions - Mysore Sightseeing

Mysore Palace
The residence of the Wodeyars, this structure is one of the largest of its kind in India. Built in 1912 in the Indo-Saracenic style, this palace exudes a grandeur that is unmatched. The Golden Royal Throne, the Darbar Hall, the Kalyana Mantapa, the Gallery and the Amba Vilas are the main attractions here.

Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery
Housed in the Jaganmohan Palace, this gallery has a collection of exquisite paintings dating back to 1875. The collection includes paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, the Russian Svetoslav Roerich and the traditional Mysore gold life style of painting.

St. Philomena's Church
Built in the Gothic style, is one of the largest churches in the country and has beautiful stained glass windows. The original St. Joseph's church built in 1840 AD was reconstructed and renamed as St. Philomena's Cathedral in 1933 AD. It is an imposing structure of architectural grandeur

Mysore Zoo
The zoo houses some rare animals bred in captivity, and exotic species of plants. The Zoological Gardens has various species of ornamental plants and trees from India and abroad. About 85 species of trees and 35 species of ornamental plants are present, which beautifies the landscape of the Zoo and provides the best environment to the captive wild animals.

Chamundi Hills
13 kms from Mysore is the temple of patron Goddess of Wodeyars, Chamundeshwari. Located on a hill 335 m high, the temple can be approached by 1000 steps built by the Maharaja of Mysore in the 17th century. Towering over the city, these hills are 13 Kms away from Mysore. Halfway up is the Nandi Bull, a 4.8-m monolith. Right on top is the 2000-year-old Chamundeshwari temple, dedicated to the patron goddess of the royal family.

Half way towards the temple is the giant monolith Nandi Bull. This 4.8 metre high monolith was originally grey in colour but the application of coconut oil by the devotees has turned it black. Close to the Chamundi temple is the giant and colourful statue of the demon Mahishasura. From the hill summit one can have a panoramic view of the Mysore City.

Vrindavan Gardens
These gardens are laid on the banks of Krishnarajasagar Dam. Spread over an area of one acre, the terraced lawns and fountains make these gardens one of the best in South India. The swirling fountains are illuminated on weekends and have been the backdrop to many movies in recent times. The Dancing fountains are a major attraction among the tourists.

Fort
It is here that Tipu charged at the British soldiers with his legendary sword. An obelisk in the fort marks the place where he fell - betrayed by his own men. The fort holds within it, a mosque and the Ranganath Swamy Temple. Outside the fort is Tipu's tomb 'Gumbaz', with splendid ebony doors inlaid with ivory. Sangam is 3 Kms south of Srirangapatna where the two branches of river Cauvery reunite in joyful exuberance.

Gopalaswamy Hills
It is a popular hill resort and a trekker's delight as well. It is situated in the verdant Western Ghats of Mysore district. The temple here is dedicated to Lord Venugopalaswamy.

EXCURSIONS MYSORE
Shivasamudra
85 Kms from Mysore, river Cauvery gushes down to a 75-metres deep gorge in the form of two picturesque waterfalls. These falls are at their best during the monsoons; nevertheless their beauty mesmerises tourists throughout the year. Around 1.5 Kms away is Asia's first hydroelectric project set up in 1902 AD.

Talakad
Located 48 kms from Mysore, this ancient town is totally buried under sand dunes and only the Dravidian style Vaidyeshwara temple is visible. It is situated on the banks of the river Cauvery. Its temples are opened for ceremonial worship on a special occasion called "Pancha Linga Darshana ", once in twelve years.

Bandipur National Park
80 kms from Mysore is Bandipur National Park, which is one of the most beautiful wild life centres. Rare species of animals and birds can be seen in this natural habitat. Bandipur has also been chosen as a Centre for the project Tiger Scheme launched in 1973 by the World Wildlife Fund to save the tiger. Bandipur, lying in the shadow of the Western Ghats, is one of the finest habitats of the Asian elephant. Drained by the Moyar River, its open forest makes it easy for visitors to see the elephant and gaur in natural surroundings.

Nagarhole National Park
About 90 kms from Mysore, the Nagarhole National Park with thick deciduous forests is home to Tiger, Elephant, Gaur, Sambar, Chital, Pangolin and about 250 species of birds. There are excellent facilities for visitors to stay at the Kabini River Lodge and for viewing wildlife.

Srirangapatna (Mandya district)
Srirangapatna located picturesquely on the banks of river Cauvery 14 Kms northeast, of the Bangalore-Mysore Highway comprises the ruins of the capital city of Haidar Ali and Tipu Sultan. This island fortress, once the capital of the Warrior King Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, has magnificent monuments that are well worth a visit.

Deriving its name from Lord Ranganatha, the town has a 1,000 years old temple dedicated to Ranganatha proclaiming the historical background of the city. Besides the mythological association of the town, the town has assumed significance for the heroism of Hyder Ali Khan and Tipu Sultan in fighting the British in association with the French.

Dariya Daulat Bagh
Dariya Daulat Bagh, Tipu's summer palace built in 1784 AD was his favourite retreat. Made of teak, this Indo-Saracenic structure has ornate frescoes and beautiful, gilded interiors. It is now a museum and speaks eloquently of Tipu's valour and his battle against the British. Close to the river is located the mausoleum of Tipu, called 'Gumbaz'.

Ranganathittu (Mandya district)
4 Kms from Srirangapatna and 18 Kms from Mysore is a bird sanctuary that houses exotic birds. Birds from as far away as Siberia and even North America make their home here. It is very common to see crocodiles basking in the sun. Best season is from May to September/October.

Nanjanagud
Located 23 Kms south of Mysore, Nanjanagud is an important pilgrim centre and is famous for its Srikanteswara temple. Built in the Dravidian style, the temple is one of the biggest of its kind in Karnataka.

Somnathpura
Famous for its 13th century Hoysala Temple, Somnathpura is 35 Kms east of Mysore. The temple is in excellent condition, has frescoed exteriors depicting episodes from the epics.

Melkote
50 Kms north, is a sacred Vaishnava pilgrim Centre, known for its Vairmudi festival in March-April. More than a lakh devotees congregate here for the festival. Melkote is also known for its handlooms.

Cauvery Fishing Camp
82 Kms from Mysore, Bhimeshwari is a paradise for anglers. Mahasheer, the finest game fish is found here. This camp is also accessible from Bangalore (100 Kms).

B. R. Hills
This picturesque hill range, at a height of 5091 ft is 120 Kms from Mysore and is home to a rich variety of flora and fauna. The temple on the hill, dedicated to Biligiri Rangaswamy attracts devotees round the year.

Mahadeshwar Hill
About 142 Kms from Mysore, is a popular pilgrim centre perched on the Mahadeshwar Hill. Atop the hill is a temple dedicated to the Lord Mahadeshwara, which is in the form of a Linga.

Festivals in Mysore
Mysore Dassara
Every October, Mysore gets ready for the Dassara Festival when the streets are lavishly decorated and the whole city wears a festive look. The main area of festivity during the festival is the palace, which is illuminated with thousands of tiny, shimmering bulbs.

The 10-day-long Dassara festivities in Mysore bring back the glory and grandeur of a bygone era. For full nine days, prayers are offered to the deities of learning, power and wealth, the nine sacred incarnations of Goddess Shakti. Music concerts dance programmes, sports competitions and other cultural events are held. On Vijaydashami, the 10th day of the festival, a colourful procession featuring caparisoned elephants winding through the gaily-decorated streets of the city, mark the occasion.

The Dassara Exhibition is another popular event. People still follow the tradition of 'Bombe Habba', where children display their colourful and attractive dolls and invite friends over. Students worship Saraswathi, the Goddess of Learning.

Ayudha Pooja
It is a part of the Dassara celebrations. All vehicles and implements are worshipped on this day. The nine-day celebrations culminate in the grand Dassara procession on Vijayadashami, the day of victory. The Dassara procession begins at the Palace with uniformed soldiers, horses, caparisoned elephants, dancers and floats accompanied by brass hands playing evocative Indian melodies. The Palace Guard and Mysore Lancers march past as graceful folk-dancers twirl and swirl between the floats. A majestic elephant adorned by golden anklets, bell and chains carries the city's patron goddess, Chamundeshwari in a 'howdah'. This extravagant celebration comes to an end with a torchlight parade by the State Police, as fireworks light up the night sky. 

DASARA OF MYSORE:-

Mysore Dasara Painting  Dasara in Mysore is a sight one would remember for a long time even after leaving the place. It is believed that the presiding deity of the city has the power to conquer evil forces and this has led the citizens to celebrate the festival with much gaiety and fervor.

The tradition of celebrating Dasara with such grandeur started with the 16th-century rulers of Vijayanagar. After the disintegration of Vijayanagar Empire, the tradition was kept alive by rulers of Mysore and continues till now.

During the month of October and November, for ten days the Dasara festival is celebrated and the city is at its colorful best with music and dance, Sports, Literary competitions, fairs and exhibitions all over. All this culminates in the Dasara procession and a torchlight parade on the tenth day.
 
ver the years Mysore has become synonymous with the Dasara (or Dussehra) festival. Dasara is the most extravagant festival of Mysore. This festival has been celebrated in Mysore with great pomp and show since centuries. This tradition is still carried on though the scale of the celebrations has been watered down. The Dasara festival is celebrated in the months of September and October each year. According to Hindu mythology the festival celebrates and commemorates the victory of Goddess Chamundeshwari after slaying the demon Mahishasura and the triumph of good over evil. The Dasara festivities have become an integral part of the culture and life in Mysore. During the 10 day festivities the normally clam, slow, peaceful city erupts into life and every street and street corner is bustling with activity. House, shops and important buildings in the city are decorated and illuminated for the period of the celebrations. Today Dasara in Mysore has become the state festival of Karnataka. As part of the celebrations renowned musicians of Karnataka and from outside perform in front of the illuminated Palace. The Palace is open to the public and the royal throne is displayed. The State Government arranges music, dance, and folk dance performances, doll shows. Wrestling and sports competitions are held. A two-month long Dasara Exhibition is held at the Doddakere Maidan, in which several business and industrial houses take part. Apart from this a Food and Film festival is also organized. During the festivities special religious ceremonies are held at different temples in Mysore especially the Chamundeshwari Temple on top of the Chamundi Hills. The high point of the Dasra celebrations is the Vijayadashami procession held on the tenth day. The finale of the celebrations is the state organized procession consisting of floats, the police and their bands, mounted guards in royal livery and folk artists and musicians. Some traditional items of the royal family form part of the procession. The main attraction of the procession is the idol of Goddess Chamundeshwari kept in the golden howdah on top of a decorated elephant. The procession begins at the Mysore Palace and ends at the Banni Mantapa grounds, traveling a distance of about 2.5 miles. The procession is followed by a torch light procession in the evening and a stunning display of fireworks.

Folk Art of Mysore

Dasara Celebration in MysoreKarnataka has a rich tradition of folk arts and folklore. Different branches of folk art like singing, drama, dance and puppet shows are popular in the rural parts of Karnataka. On different festivals and especially during Dasara these artistes visit the city of Mysore and perform. In the olden days they performed before the King, today they perform on the streets of Mysore or in specially designated areas during Dasara. Presentation of Folk Art by popular folk groups of the state has become an established and regular part of the Dasara celebrations.

These folk artistes form part of the famous Dasara procession as well. Bessu Kamsale, Somanakunitha and Yasksghagana the popular folk art of Karnataka form an integral part of the Dasara celebrations and the procession. Beesu Kamasale has been recognized as a leading folk art of India and many leading groups have taken part in national and international cultural festivals. Yakashgana is a nightlong stage play, where the actors enact episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata throughout the night.

This folk art is especially popularly in Dakshina Kannada and Uttara Kannada districts of Karnataka are performed in Mysore. Folk art or indigenous art is an integral part of rural life and is handed down from generation to generation by word of mouth. Recognizing its importance Mysore University has set up a museum of Folk arts to collect artifacts related to the different folk arts in Karnataka. The University has also introduced a course in Folkarts at the Master's Degree level.
The Elephants of Mysore Dasara:-

Elephant Biligiriranga

Biligiriranga was majestic beast, about ten feet in height. The king Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar was very fond of this bull and would personally mingle with the elephant during Dasara. After the festivities, Biligiriranga would return to the forest and live there till the next Dasara. According to the forest officials, he was a virile bull and was responsible for increase in the elephant population in the area. There is no doubt that Biligiriranga increased the glory of the festival in Mysore. It is said that he was loyal and obedient to his trainer (mahut) till his death.

Elephant Rajendra

Rajendra was caught in the year 1971, and was the last to serve the Wodeyar dynasty. Soon after Indira Gandhi annulled all royalty in India, instead of the king, an idol of Goddess Chamundi was paraded during the procession, so Rajendra also had to adjust to the changing times moving from royal patronage to that of a public government.
Rajendra was a soft bull. He was easily influenced by presence of cow elephants. His trainers felt that Rajendra never found true love and sought for a soul-mate till his demise.

Elephant Drona

Drona was named after Dronacharya, the great guru of Mahabharata. In the epic, Dronacharya is a priest, but he was so mature and intelligent that he taught warfare for a livelihood!  The elephant Drona was named so because of his amazing ability to learn and correct himself. When the ambari (the golden platform carrying the idol, a.k.a. howdah) shifted left or right during the procession, Drona could move his muscles selectively and stabilize the weight! His trainers were very surprised because they had not trained Drona in this skill. Drona also practiced energy conservation techniques (he would walk slow early in the procession to conserve energy), and rigid eating habits (he was very particular about his diet, and always ate in solitude). Drona led a durable family life with his two wives Kokila and Shanti.
One day Drona went grazing in a village of Balle and pulled down a trunk of a tree to eat the leaves. The falling trunk also brought down a high-tension power cable and instantly electrocuted the celebrated bull. Drona was mourned in the state just like any other celebrity.

Elephant Arjuna

It is a common practice to groom a descendant to the lead elephant even when the lead elephant is alive. Arjuna was the elephant thus trained to succeed Drona.  One day Arjuna went to bathe in a river with his buddy Bahadur and Bahadur's trainer Annayya. While crossing a road, the elephants were startled by a vehicle and in the chaos that ensued, the rider Annayya fell down to the ground, only to be stamped on the his head by Arjuna. He was crushed to death. People opined that an elephant that had killed a man was unfit to carry the religious duties of Dasara. So Arjuna, while being as capable as Drona, never got to be the bearer of the prestige. These days he helps the forest officials trace poachers in the Bandipur National forest. The tragedy has has no apparent impact on him, but the people are not accepting him.

Elephant Balarama

After the Arjuna was voted out of Dasara lineup, Balarama, a bull of about forty years of age, who was captured in a forest near Somavarpet has been tapped for the festival. While he lacks the charisma of Drona and Arjuna, it is said that he is a dependable elephant. He is said to be an introvert, and had to be provided special training so he can withstand the firing of canons that occurs during the festival.
© K. L. Kamat
Mysore Dasara Procession
Mysore Dasara Procession
Decorated elephants waiting their turn to walk the procession.

Shopping in Mysore

Shopping in MysoreAs the treasure trove of a myriad of handicrafts, Mysore is a veritable shopping extravaganza. Government -owned emporiums, shops and the bustling bazaars teem with a vast array of delightful artifacts straddling silks, sandalwood crafts, traditional paintings, perfumes and lot more. The main shopping centers are around Krishnaraja Circle, Devaraja Urs Road and Sayyaji Rao Road.

The shimmering silks of Mysore figure prominently in shopping lists. There are private weavers in Mysore and there is the Government Silk Weaving Factory that produces beautiful silk sarees, silk fabric and ties. This factory has its showroom on Manandavadi Road and also in the shopping area around Krishnaraja Circle at the heart of the city.

Mysore is equally well-known for artifacts are made out of sandalwood, rosewood and teakwood. Craftsmen produce figures of Gods, Goddesses, jewel boxes, small gift items etc. The best place to buy these things is the Cauvery Handicrafts Emporium of the Karnataka Handicrafts Development Corporation.

Mysore is also famous for Agarbathies or incense sticks. A large variety of incense sticks are manufactured by small and large manufactures. It is manufactured here using locally available perfumes like sandalwood and jasmine and the exported for Mysore and Bangalore to the rest of the world. The best place to get all these items is the Government Handicrafts emporium in Mysore.
How to Reach Mysore:
By Air:
The nearest airport to Mysore is Bangalore (139 km). All the domestic airlines in the country operate their flights to Bangalore from all the major cities in the country. Some international airlines too have flights to Bangalore. Bangalore is to have an international airport shortly.
By Rail:
Mysore is connected with a number of trains to Bangalore. The super fast luxury train the Shatabdi Express connects Mysore to Madras. The quickest and most comfortable way to reach Mysore is via Bangalore.
By Road:
Mysore is 139kms to the south west of Bangalore. The state highway that connects these two cities is very well maintained. Travelling from Bangalore to Mysore by road is a pleasant experience and will take about 3hrs. The Karnataka Road Transport Corporation has excellent bus service to Mysore. There are ordinary buses, semi-luxury buses and luxury buses operated by the Government of Karnataka. Every half an hour there is a non-stop bus to Mysore from Bangalore Bus Station. Corporations of other states and private tour operators have buses plying to Mysore as well. All these facilities have made Mysore extremely accessible by road.

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